FAQ — Straight Answers From Erie's Concrete Specialists


We get asked a lot of questions. Good ones. Here are the most common — answered the same way we'd answer them in person. No fluff, no hedging, no sales pitch.


Cost & Pricing

Q: How much does epoxy flooring cost?


The honest answer: it depends on the system, the slab condition, the square footage, and what the concrete actually needs before anything gets applied. A grind-and-seal starts at the lower end. A full broadcast flake system with an MVB base runs mid-range. Metallic epoxy, urethane cement, and chemical containment systems are at the top — and for good reason.


What we won't do is give you a price per square foot over the phone without seeing your slab. Two garages with identical square footage can require completely different prep work. The prep drives the price as much as the system does.

Call or email us for a free on-site estimate. We'll walk your concrete, tell you exactly what it needs, and give you an accurate number before anything gets scheduled.


Q: Why are your prices different from the quote I got from another contractor?


Probably because the scope is different. If another contractor quoted you less, ask them:


• What surface prep are they doing — diamond grinding or just acid etching?

• What is the solids content of their coating products?

• Does their system include a moisture vapor barrier?

• What's the dry film thickness of their topcoat?


That last question about solids content is one most people don't know to ask — and it matters more than almost anything else. See the solids content question below. A cheaper quote usually means less prep, lower-solids products, or thinner coats. None of those things show up on day one. They show up two winters from now when your floor is peeling. We're not the cheapest contractor in Erie. We're also not the ones you'll be calling to redo your floor in three years.


Q: Do you offer financing?


We don't currently offer in-house financing. For larger commercial and industrial projects, we work with flexible payment scheduling — contact us to discuss options.


Products & Materials


Q: What is solids content and why does it matter?


This is one of the most important questions in the entire flooring industry — and most contractors hope you never ask it.

When a coating product is mixed and applied, it contains two things: solids and solvents. The solids are the actual coating material that stays on your floor after curing. The solvents are carriers that evaporate during the curing process and contribute nothing to the finished film. Solids content is the percentage of the product that actually becomes part of your floor.


Here's why this matters directly to you:

A 50% solids product applied at 10 mils wet film thickness cures down to approximately 5 mils of actual coating. A 100% solids product applied at the same wet thickness cures to the full 10 mils — because there's nothing to evaporate. You get twice the floor.


Lower solids content means:

• Thinner finished coating for the same application

• Less chemical resistance

• Less abrasion resistance

• Shorter service life

• More coats required to achieve the same film build — driving up labor cost


We use 100% solids products wherever the system calls for it. Our epoxy base coats are 100% solids. That's not a marketing claim — it's a material spec you can verify by asking for the product data sheet. If a contractor can't tell you the solids content of what they're putting on your floor, that's a problem.



Q: What brands do you use?


We work with multiple professional-grade manufacturers depending on the application. Our product selection is driven by what the slab needs and what the performance spec requires — not by a single-vendor relationship or a franchise obligation. Brands we work with include Sherwin-Williams, Simiron, Niagara Machine, Marble Wrap, Ardex, Rapid Set, Metzger McGuire, Covia, and others. The right product for a residential garage flake floor is not the same as the right product for a food-processing facility or a polished concrete showroom. We carry and specify accordingly.


This is one of the advantages of being an independent contractor rather than a franchisee. We're not locked into one brand's system. If a better product exists for your application, we can use it.


Q: Do you use polyurea?


Not as a coating system. We don't install polyurea floor coatings — for reasons we explain in detail on our Polyurea vs Epoxy page. The short version: in Erie's climate, with our moisture conditions and freeze-thaw cycling, the one-day polyurea systems common in the franchise market skip the moisture vapor barrier work that slabs in this region require. We won't do that.


We do use polyurea as a crack repair material — it's excellent for filling and stabilizing structural cracks in concrete slabs before a coating system goes down. That's a different application entirely, using polyurea for what it's actually good at.


Q: What's the difference between epoxy and polyaspartic?


They're different chemistries with different strengths. Epoxy is the superior substrate binder — it penetrates concrete more deeply, forms a stronger mechanical bond, and provides better moisture vapor resistance at the base layer. That's why our full broadcast flake system starts with a 100% solids epoxy MVB base coat. Polyaspartic is used as a topcoat — it resists yellowing from UV exposure, holds up well to chemicals and abrasion, and provides the wear surface for the system. The combination — epoxy base, polyaspartic top — gives you the best of both chemistries, where each one actually performs best.


What we don't do is use polyaspartic as the entire system from base to top. That's the one-day franchise approach, and it sacrifices substrate preparation and moisture management for speed.


Q: What's the difference between your systems?


The quick breakdown is on our Quick Systems Overview page — every system we offer, with pricing tiers, ideal applications, and what makes each one the right call for specific situations. The real answer comes from a site visit. We evaluate your concrete, your use case, your budget, and your performance expectations — then recommend what we'd actually put in our own facility. No upselling. No pushing the premium system on a slab that doesn't need it.


Metallic Epoxy Floors — What You Need to Know


Q: Why do metallic floors cost more than other systems?


Two reasons — Materials and Labor. Both are significant. Neither is padded.


THE MATERIALS COST IS REAL.

Metallic epoxy systems use premium decorative materials applied at low coverage rates to achieve the depth, movement, and visual complexity that make them what they are. Our metallic floors are poured at approximately 30 square feet per gallon on the decorative coats. Compare that to a standard epoxy body coat that covers 200-300 square feet per gallon, and you start to understand why the material bill alone is substantially higher.


That 30 square feet per gallon is on top of two full primer coats, which are themselves on top of whatever slab prep was required before any product touched the floor. Crack repair, surface grinding, moisture vapor barrier work — all of that happens first. The decorative system is applied to a properly prepared substrate. The primer coats go down on top of that. The metallic pours happen last — and at that coverage rate, material costs add up quickly for anything larger than a small space. There is no shortcut to coverage rate.


THE LABOR COST IS REAL.

Metallic floors are decorative coatings. Every coat is visible in the finished product. There is no flake coverage to hide imperfections, no broadcast aggregate to mask a contaminated surface, no topcoat that corrects what happened underneath it. Every layer is exposed. Every variable shows.

Every coat must be completely free of contamination — dust, debris, oils, moisture — before the next coat goes down. That means thorough sanding between coats, complete surface inspection, and meticulous cleaning at every stage. You can't rush this. A contaminated decorative coat doesn't get corrected — it gets redone.


Temperature affects how metallic pigments move and settle. Humidity affects open time and flow. The way the material is manipulated — the tools, the technique, the timing — all of it shows in the finished floor. Two installers using the same product on the same day can produce completely different results. This is craft work, not production work.


This is why metallic floors are priced the way they are. Premium materials poured at high consumption rates, applied over full primer coats, on top of proper slab prep, by skilled hands that know what they're doing. When it's done right, it's not a floor coating. It's a piece of art that you walk on — and it's priced like one.


Q: How long does a metallic floor installation take?

Honestly, it depends, and we'll tell you that up front rather than give you a number that turns out to be wrong.

Unlike a flake system, where square footage gives a reliable two-to-three-day window, metallic floors carry enough variables that we won't commit to a firm timeline until we've evaluated the space and discussed the design in detail.


What affects timing:

• The design — a single-color metallic with clean open flow is a different job than a multi-color custom design with defined transition zones and layered effects

• Coat count and cure windows — two full primer coats, decorative metallic layers, a protective topcoat — every coat needs to cure fully, be sanded, inspected, and cleaned before the next one goes down

• Sanding between coats — every decorative coat gets sanded thoroughly before the next. Skip this and the floor fails. Do it right and it adds time

• Environmental conditions — temperature and humidity affect how metallic pigments flow, settle, and cure

• What the floor decides — metallic installation involves real-time decision making as the pigments move and settle

What we can tell you with certainty: we don't rush a metallic floor to meet a window. When you commission a metallic floor from 814 Epoxy and More, you're getting the time the job actually needs — not the time it takes to get off your property and on to the next one.


Timing & Scheduling

Q: How long does installation take?

Most residential garage floors take 2 to 3 days, depending on the system and the slab condition. A full broadcast flake system typically means day one for prep and base coat, day two for flake and scrape, and day three for topcoat. Smaller spaces with straightforward slabs can sometimes come in on the shorter end. Commercial and industrial projects scale with square footage and system complexity. What we won't do is rush your floor to finish in one day if the system doesn't call for it. Our slow-cure polyaspartic topcoat is chosen for its superior performance — the additives have time to settle and bond properly. That takes a proper cure window between coats. We'd rather do it right than do it fast.


Q: How long do I have to stay off the floor after installation?

For our full broadcast flake system, typically 24 hours for foot traffic, 72 hours before you drive on it or place heavy equipment back. We'll provide specific return-to-service times for your system at the time of install, based on the products used and ambient conditions.


Q: Do you work in winter?

Yes — with proper conditions and prep. Erie winters are our home turf. We understand how cold concrete behaves, how low temperatures affect cure times, and how to adapt our process accordingly. What we don't do is force an install when conditions would compromise the result. If the slab temperature or ambient moisture conditions are off, we'll tell you — and we'll schedule when it can be done correctly.

For indoor spaces with climate control, winter timing is rarely an issue.


Q: How far in advance do I need to schedule?

Spring through early fall books out faster due to residential demand. Winter typically has more availability. Contact us as early as possible for spring projects — those spots fill up.


The Slab & Prep

Q: My concrete has cracks. Can you still coat it?

Yes — and we'll repair them properly before anything gets coated. We don't coat over cracks and hope for the best. Every crack gets evaluated, chased with a saw if necessary, filled with the appropriate repair material, and ground flush before the coating system goes down. A crack coated over without proper repair will telegraph through the finished floor. We've fixed enough of those failures for other contractors to know better than to skip this step.

See our Crack & Joint Filling page for a full breakdown of our three repair methods.


Q: My garage floor has an existing coating. Does that need to come off?

Depends on the condition and bond of the existing coating. If it's well-bonded and properly profiled, we can sometimes coat over it. If it's peeling, delaminating, or poorly bonded, it comes off. Putting a new system over a failing substrate is one of the most common ways floors fail. We'll assess it on-site and give you a straight answer.


Q: Do I need to do anything to prepare before you arrive?

Clear the space — remove vehicles, stored items, and anything sitting on the floor. Get your car out the night before install day. We handle everything else — surface prep, cleaning, masking, and protection of adjacent surfaces.


Q: My slab is old and rough. Can you still get a good result?

Usually yes. Older slabs often have more character — aggregate exposure, natural texture — that can look excellent under the right system. A rough or pitted slab going under a full broadcast flake system is actually a good candidate — the flakes hide a lot. A rough slab going under polished concrete needs more evaluation and possibly overlay work first. We'll tell you what's achievable.


Maintenance & Longevity

Q: How long will my floor last?

Properly installed and reasonably maintained:

• Full broadcast flake system — 15+ years

• Polished concrete — 20-25+ years with periodic maintenance

• Urethane cement in industrial environments — longest-performing system we install

• Grind and seal — plan to reseal every 2-5 years, depending on traffic

The number one factor in floor longevity isn't the product — it's the prep and the solids content of the applied material. A well-prepped slab with a 100% solids system outlasts a thin product on a poorly prepped surface every time.


Q: How do I clean my floor?

For routine cleaning: a dust mop or soft-bristle broom for dry debris, a damp mop with a pH-neutral cleaner for spills and grime. Avoid acidic cleaners, vinegar-based products, and anything abrasive. For garage floors, a simple mop and mild degreaser handle most situations. We'll provide you with specific care instructions at installation based on your system.


Q: What should I avoid?

Prolonged standing water, harsh chemical cleaners, and sharp metal objects dragged across the surface accelerate wear on any coating. For our flake system — hot tires, road salt, gasoline, and motor oil are all fine. That's what the system is designed for. For polished concrete, clean up acidic liquids promptly. For containment coatings, the chemical resistance spec of the specific system governs what it can handle long-term.


Q: My floor got scratched. Can it be repaired?

Minor scratches in the topcoat can often be addressed with a spot application of topcoat material. More serious damage requires more involved repair. Contact us — we'll assess and tell you the right fix. Because we document our installations and know exactly what products went on your floor, we can match and repair accurately.


About 814 Epoxy and More

Q: Where do you work?

We're based in Erie, PA, and serve Northwest Pennsylvania as our primary market — Erie, Crawford, Warren, Venango, and surrounding counties. We've traveled to Pittsburgh, Buffalo, Cleveland, and beyond for the right project. If you're outside our typical range, call us — we evaluate larger projects on a case-by-case basis.

Q: Are you licensed and insured?

Yes. PA Contractor License #165436. Fully insured. We provide proof of insurance (Erie Insurance) for commercial and institutional projects that require it — just ask.

Q: Who actually does the work? Do you subcontract?

No subcontractors. Every 814 Epoxy job is installed by our own crew — Joe, Justin, and Rob. You get the same people every time. That's not something a franchise system can offer — and it's the difference between accountability and anonymity.

Q: Do you do residential and commercial work?

Both. Residential garages, basements, and living spaces are a significant part of what we do. Commercial, industrial, food processing, institutional, and containment applications are all in our wheelhouse. The systems differ. The standard of work doesn't.

Q: What's your warranty?

Every floor we install is backed by the 814 Workmanship Guarantee. If a failure occurs due to our installation or the materials we applied, we will return to evaluate and correct it at no cost to you. We don't offer a 'lifetime warranty' that disappears when a franchise territory changes hands. We offer direct accountability from the same team that built your floor.

See our Guarantee Statement page for the full details.


Still have a question we didn't answer? Call us at (814) 812-3118 or email office@814epoxyandmore.com. We're an actual local business with actual people who answer — not a contact form that disappears into a CR